Driving from the Pacific West Coast to North Carolina in six days made me feel like a rock star, minus the glam, roadies, and groupies! Wait, Scully and Mulder were our groupies or were they bandmembers? No, groupies. The Lakeland Terriers were definitely groupies.
Rock Star and Cross-Country Life on the Road:
Most mornings waking like a confused rock star - "Where am I?" "What day is it?"
Fighting off the affection of our groupies each morning
Not experiencing any of the cool places we passed
Sleeping poorly in hotels along the journey
Embracing comfort over style while on the road
Traveling With Lakeland Terriers:
Did you know that 78% of pet owners plan to travel with their furry friends? Well, traveling with spirited Lakeland Terriers definitely kept us on our toes!
These little hunters are not your typical easy travel companions:
They won't back down from a challenge
Off-leash adventures turn into a game of "Catch Me if You Can"
Barking at every bump in the night, interrupting our sleep
Many dogs hate vacuum cleaners. They bark and nip at the loud mechanical beasts, but Scully and Mulder take their response to a whole other level of intensity. They also go nuts with hair dryers, brooms, and as I learned the hard way, squeegees. They look so cute and sweet, but trust me, your wildest imagination cannot envision their reaction when triggered. Stay tuned for more about squeegees later. Hey, maybe the inspiration for Rage Against the Machine came after witnessing a vacuum attacked by a canine.
The Journey Begins
Armed with a full tank of gas, road snacks, and a 70's and 80's Spotify playlist featuring Carly Simon, Queen, and The Eagles for me to serenade my imaginary fans and 90's artists like Alanis Morissette, Cake, and Matchbox 20 for my millennial daughter, we embarked on our epic road trip in our tour bus—a Quartz Blue Pearl Subaru Crosstrek—stuffed to the brim with Courtney’s belongings and barely enough room for her two Lakies.
Excitement surged through our veins as we pulled out of my driveway at 8:20 a.m. on a sunny 65-degree Saturday morning. We laughed at the fact our combined sense of direction was almost as reliable as that of someone immediately stepping off of a tornado carnival ride. Who needs an internal compass when you have smartphones and Google Maps, right?
We cruised south down Highway 101 into California until we connected with CA-197 S to wind our way through the picturesque mountain pass along Smith River and northeast into Oregon via US-199 N.
Maps directed us to I-5 S and OR-140 E. Alas, our east-bound-and-down schedule to drive 3,000 miles to reach North Carolina in six days left no time for sightseeing detours. Reluctantly, we zipped past the exit for the gem of the Cascades—Crater Lake. No doubt, Burt Reynolds and Sally Field would have attempted to jump the Bandit’s Trans Am over the lake with Jackie Gleason in hot pursuit. But it wasn't a feat we dared try with the extra weight of our packed Subie.
Courtney visited Crater Lake (above picture) when she hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2023 and agrees it is a must see attraction. It sits at number 3 on my bucket list. If you would like to learn more about the deepest and probably most beautiful lake in America, click here.
No Room for Hitchhikers
Driving along OR-140 E, Courtney casually pointed out Fish Lake Resort—one of the locations she hitchhiked to for a burger during her PCT hiking adventure. If you’re a parent, you understand the sheer panic that shot through me at learning my daughter had completely ignored my warnings about never getting into a car with a stranger. Thank goodness she always hitched with a group, because you know, there is safety in numbers.
In an attempt to pay it forward for all the rides Courtney and her hiking tramily—trail family—received from the kind Trail Angels, I was ready to bless any thru-hikers we came across with a ride. It was probably for the best that we didn’t run into any hikers with their thumbs extended, because the roof rack was the only available space for an additional passenger. And I’m pretty sure if not illegal, law enforcement at least frowns upon a driver strapping anyone to the top of a car.
In the middle of nowhere, miles and miles away from any signs of civilization, we drove on with no exits in sight indicating towns or gas stations. Can you imagine the havoc the combination of caffeinated beverages and scarcity of restrooms plays on a sixty-plus-year-old bladder? Let's just say, it was a true test of endurance!
How About Some Guardrails?
As the temperature soared into the upper 90s, the landscape gradually morphed from rivers, lakes, and lush forested mountains to desert plains, mountains, and buttes covered in sagebrush. The road twisted and turned like it was auditioning for a Fast and Furious movie. The breathtaking view—perilously close to a steep cliff edge on OR-140 E—made me ask, "Where are the guardrails?" I mean, the slightest veer to the right, and we'd find ourselves re-enacting the finale scene from Thelma and Louise.
Rolling into Nevada, the desert scenery and highway stretched on like a never-ending story along NV-140. After exiting onto I-80 E at Winnemucca, the speed limit and the highway's name were synced. Cruising at 80 miles per hour, I imagined myself in a Hollywood movie worthy race against time.
The sun seemed out to get me. In the late-afternoon, its glare blinded any view of vehicles behind me. The Subaru's blind spot warning system became my trusty sidekick. And then when it disappeared for the evening, talk about darkness. You haven't truly experienced the dark of night until you find yourself on a lonely highway in the middle of nowhere, with only a sliver of a moon and your headlights to illuminate the way.
The Rock Tour Thrill Wanes
After 630 miles over 12 hours, we arrived at the Elko, Nevada, Hampton Inn at 9:30 p.m. while jamming with Elton John to "Bennie and the Jets." Such a classic sing-along tune.
Had we been A-List rock stars, a team of roadies would have rushed to unload our car while we strutted straight to our room. Instead, we debated whether the Subie's contents were valuable enough to bother schlepping to our room. The mental image of driving the next 2,500 miles with a trash bag taped over a broken window convinced us to unload.
We sequestered the dogs in the room, grabbed a luggage cart, and began the daunting task of removing our belongings from the Subie. Although we seemed to move in slow motion that first night, by the end of our tour, we had our routine down to a fine art. If only this were an Olympic event, we'd bring home the gold for sure!
We resisted the temptation to hold the loaded cart hostage overnight. Instead, we strategically stacked our belongings around the room's perimeter to avoid any late-night tripping hazards. Then I heroically returned the cart to its rightful lobby home about the time the clock struck midnight.
Despite my attempts to sleep, I woke every hour until eventually giving up at 6:30 a.m. Courtney roused around 8:30. After taking the Lakies for a brisk morning walk followed by repacking the car, we hit the highway at 9:15 a.m.
Lost Time
The cool morning melted away as the temperature climbed to 104 degrees. How I longed for the moderate climate of the Oregon coast.
Losing time when crossing a time zone was a problem with driving east. We always forgot to factor in the time changes when planning our ETA for the next evening.
Our first hour disappeared in West Wendover, Nevada. West Wendover and Wendover, Utah are sister cities that butt up against each other at the state line. In October 1999 to put the cities in the same time zone, the U.S. Department of Transportation switched West Wendover from the Pacific Time Zone to Mountain Time Zone.
Utah’s Salt Flats
The Nevada desert gave way to the salt flats of Utah. At first glance the salt looks like snow, but with the temperature in the 90's that was impossible. Fun fact—manufacturers produce two million tons of salt annually from Utah’s salt plains for uses including: table salt, de-icing roads, salt-lick blocks for cattle, and water softeners.
Zooming past the Bonneville Salt Flats International Speedway exit, we resisted the urge to test our Subie's top speed! The flat barren track provides an ideal location to set speed records. In addition, the salt crust keeps tires cool at high speeds.
After 197 miles in Utah, we crossed into Wyoming where an old west rugged mountain landscape and cooler temperatures greeted us.
Collateral Damage
Each time we stopped for gas, Courtney took the dogs for a potty break while I filled up the tank and scraped the bug remains from the windshield. But on one occasion, I neglected my window duty until Courtney returned the Lakies to the car and went into the station. As soon as I dared touch the squeegee to the glass, Mulder and Scully leaped into the driver's seat in full-on exorcist mode, appearing to try to break through the window. Courtney burst out of the station, screaming, "Drop the squeegee!"
The driver's door now bears scars where the Lakies literally tried to chew through the door! I felt terrible, but I will never make that mistake again. Courtney didn't hold the puncture wounds against me. She says when you have dogs, you can't expect to have pristine possessions. All I can say is they're lucky, they're so darn cute.
Cool Sights We Didn’t Explore in Wyoming
According to road signs, I-80 crossed the Continental Divide twice, once at milepost 206 and again at 158. The Seminoe State Park, Medicine Bow Rail Trail, and the Snowy Range Mountains called us to visit, but we never let up on the accelerator as we offered our apologies.
With 540 miles traversed by our tires, we parked our wounded vehicle at the Hampton Inn in Rawlins, Wyoming, at 7 p.m. MT.
Fugitives
During our hotel stays, we encountered more dogs than a Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show! Each time we left the hotel room with the Lakies, we felt like fugitives. Serving as lookout, Courtney would peer through the peephole, looking for approaching canines. Once the coast was clear, we dashed to the stairs. We always chose the stairs with Scully and Mulder because we couldn't risk them getting triggered while trapped in an elevator with another pet. Not to mention, elevators are mechanical.
A Pepto Bismol Day
The third morning, it took a minute to remember where we stopped for the night. Our grand plan to hit the road early to make it to Lincoln, Nebraska by nightfall hit a speed bump when Scully had stomach issues. We postponed our departure while Courtney scoured the nearby Walmart for anti-diarrhea medicine.
Not All Rest Areas are Created Equal
After allowing some time for the pink potion to take effect, we bid adieu to Rawlins a little before 10. A folded towel provided the only protection for the shot gun passenger consoling Scully. I volunteered for the lion’s share of driving. We stopped often to provide ample opportunities for Scully to potty, and thankfully she had no accidents. Summit Rest Area provided one of the nicest public facilities we encountered on our trip, plus it hosted a bust of President Lincoln.
I-80 follows most of the Lincoln Highway route—the first intercontinental highway across the United States.
We combatted drowsiness on Nebraska's long straight stretches of flat scenery by changing drivers every couple of hours and partaking in Celcius Energy drinks sparingly.
The Stinky Inn
Unable to battle the sleep-inducing terrain any longer, we surrendered in Lexington, Nebraska after only 439 miles. Apparently, when choosing hotel locations, Hilton Properties passed over Lexington, leaving us Hilton Rewards members high and dry. After opting for the Holiday Inn, the front desk employee politely informed us they had no available rooms. Really? A town with a population of 10,275 didn't have a single room on a Monday? It was Monday, wasn’t it? After a frantic Google search, we settled on the Lexington hotel with the highest customer rating at 4.2 and crossed our fingers.
"Hotel California" blared from the radio as Maps led us to the hotel (let's keep its real name under wraps). We seriously questioned the judgment of those 352 people who reviewed it. Despite being one of our pricier pit stops, it was in dire need of a makeover and a heavy dose of air freshener. The unmistakable scent of manure wafting through the air hinted that there must be a nearby livestock ranch. Inside, the musty odor, though an upgrade from the outdoor bouquet, was less than inviting. Was the Eagles' ballad an omen? Probably, but we were far too exhausted to hunt for better lodgings. So, we held our breath and lugged our belongings to our room, praying we would be able to leave after we checked out.
Febreze Advertising Executives
Looking for a promotional opportunity? Just imagine the bragging rights if you can banish the stench from the Stinky Inn! You can thank me later.
On a positive note, at least if Scully had an accident, it would blend right in! And hey, we didn't need a wake-up call. When the hotel staff shoved a paper statement under the door at 5 a.m., the Lakies sounded the alarm! Stinky Inn, how about using that modern convenience called email to deliver your statements?
Tropical Storm Beryl Threatened Flooding
Besides needing fresh air, we rose early in an attempt to arrive in Columbia, Missouri before the predicted storms. Our trusty Google Maps indicated flash flood warnings for all suggested routes, due to heavy rain storms produced in response to Tropical Storm Beryl. The last thing we wanted was for family and friends to catch us on the nightly news, hanging out of the Subaru’s windows crying for help while floating down the Missouri river.
The morning sky remained clear in spite of the predictions. Our stomachs growled for lunch as we neared Nebraska City. The city’s quaint downtown reminded me of small towns of yesteryear. Several of the buildings bore recreated signs of the stores that once served the city, like F.W. Woolworth Co. five and dime and The Overland Theatre. The businesses flourished during a time when people knew and checked on their neighbors, kids roamed their neighborhoods until suppertime, and gas station attendants cleaned your windshield and checked your tire pressure while they filled up your car.
The Keeping Room Restaurant and Boutique turned out to be a gem. Entering the café required a stroll through the darling shop side filled with unique home décor and fashionable clothing. We had to wear blinders since the Subaru refused to hold one more item.
The restaurant owner enthusiastically allowed us to sit at one of their outside tables on the shaded sidewalk with Scully and Mulder. The ham and broccoli quiche and apple walnut salad with grilled chicken hit the spot. If I ever pass through Nebraska City again, you can bet I plan to check out The Keeping Room’s Boutique’s offerings and dine in the restaurant.
Civilization
Maps dipped us through the southeastern corner of Iowa for a few miles before we cruised south into Missouri.
Normally, I complain about cities looking like they were built from the same Lego set, but after driving over a thousand miles without the conveniences of chain establishments, spotting a Target felt like winning the jackpot. On the con side, increased traffic and a less picturesque landscape accompanied civilization.
The Subie's odometer increased another 500 miles, by the time we reached the Hampton Inn in Columbia, Missouri, unscathed by storms and with no impromptu river cruises.
What’s My Room Number?
While I finished stacking the Subie's contents onto the baggage cart, Courtney made her way to the room ahead of me. Wheeling the cart out of the elevator, I recalled every room number since the start of our journey, except the current one. Rock stars probably experience the same dilemma on tour. Knowing the approximate location, I played a little game of "Is This My Hotel Room"? After swiping my room key card on two doors, I won the prize behind door number three...kisses from Scully and Mulder.
On the fifth morning, Maps still indicated a risk of potential flooding.
Hiking Friends
Link and Zelda, the trail names for a couple Courtney trekked hundreds miles with on the Appalachian Trail in 2020, invited us to stop by their work place in St. Louis, Missouri. They surprised us with a pizza and fried ravioli feast fit for a thru-hiker.
The three hikers reminisced about experiences on the AT. Zelda mentioned she had no intentions of making any friends on the trail, but after she met Texas Time aka Courtney, she had no choice but to include her as a tramily member.
After waddling out of Zelda and Link's office stuffed, we left St. Louis, thanking the Lord for good friends, no road closures, and only a few scattered showers. We drove across the Mississippi River into Illinois on I-64.
Not long after we entered Indiana, Maps detoured us to bypass a traffic accident, but a Road Closed sign blocking the alternate route sent us backtracking. Was maps unaware of the road closure? Too bad the detour failed, since we ended up idling on I-64 for forty-five minutes while tow trucks cleared the accident.
Hmm. A few days prior, Maps advised us to exit I-80 E due to a traffic slowdown. It tried to detour us onto a one-lane gravel road running beside the freeway. Courtney pulled onto the shoulder as we considered our options. Traffic traveling both ways on I-80 sped along. No one else exited toward the suspicious detour route. Negotiating a U-turn, Courtney chose to re-enter the highway. After 5 or 6 miles, traffic cones narrowed the eastbound direction to one lane and the speed limit lowered from 80 to 55 mph, but with traffic light we still cruised at a nice pace. Was the App playing with us, just because it could? Perhaps the Lakies rage against machines, might be justified.
After racking up 123 miles in Indiana, we hit Kentucky. It felt like we were on a state-counting spree—, "One, two, three... Kentucky, you're number four, baby!" The little known Daniel Boone National Forest resides in Kentucky, consisting of over two million miles of wilderness. Unfortunately, it was one more amazing destination, we didn't visit.
And can you expect to take a road trip without being held hostage by road construction? Just outside of Louisville, we were held up for twenty minutes, but hey, at least we got to enjoy the scenic view of... well, more cars. With 495 miles under our tires, we rolled into the Homewood Suites in Lexington, KY, at 7 p.m. to much nicer accommodations than the Stinky Inn in Lexington, NE.
Telltale Signs of Pet Friendly Hotel
Dog poo littering the grounds is a sure sign that indicates a pet friendly hotel. Often a doggy deposit sat less than a few feet from a dog station with a trash can. Come on pet owners, you are better than this. Clean up after your dog. Leave no trace. And to the MVPs who diligently clean up after their furry friends, you rock! Keep up the good work.
The sixth morning, we worked up a sweat loading the car. The temperature was only 75 degrees, but that high humidity turned the outdoors into a sauna. On a good note, Scully's digestive issues had returned to normal.
Toll Roads and Eclairs
I-64 E and I-77 S West Virginia toll roads gently rolled through the Appalachian Mountains along mostly rural areas. They are proud of their toll roads in West Virginia. We coughed up $12.75 to drive 126 miles—roughly 10 cents a mile. Since gas and food exits were infrequent once again, we took Exit 54 up on its promise for food. The Corner Gas and Grill in Pax, WV, offered a decent menu, but shade for parking was scarcer than toilet paper during COVID. To our delight, they offered a doughnut case that would make any mouth water. We nabbed two chocolate eclairs. Everyone knows calories consumed on a road trip don't count, especially when eaten in a hot car with A/C blowing and pups in our laps trying to sneak a lick.
Forested mountains ran along I-77 S for the 76 miles we drove through Virginia. Courtney recognized Bland, Virginia, a town she hiked through during her stint on the Appalachian Trail.
Welcome to North Carolina
My heart skipped a beat when my road weary eyes beheld the Welcome to North Carolina sign. Yeah baby, goodbye marathon driving days!
To the east of I-74, Pilot Mountain rose out of the North Carolina hills, greeting us as it had welcomed travelers for centuries before us.
Our rock an roll tour came to an end in the nick of time. After singing my heart out for six straight days, my voice grew hoarse, and I surrendered the stage to Carly Simon to bring us to our destination with a solo performance of "You're so Vain".
Menacing storm clouds gathered to welcome us to Durham. The humidity soared, steaming my hair into a mountain of frizz. You readers blessed with curly hair, understand what I'm talking about.
On our final day, the odometer recorded 480 miles, bringing our grand total to 3,084 miles of fun. We set a new world record, unloading the car into our room at the Hilton Garden Inn.
Don't Try This at Home
Traveling light, I left my shampoo and conditioner at home since hotels provide them to guests. Even the Stinky Inn offered the complimentary toiletries. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice the missing pump top on the shampoo attached to the shower wall until after I’d stepped under the running water. I made a quick decision to wash my hair with shower gel. Don't try this at home unless you want dull and limp tresses. On a positive note, it weighed down my frizz a little.
Fortunately, no paparazzi waited to snap my picture and share my shampoo faux pas with the world. There are advantages to being unknown.
Repeat Performance?
Do I want to drive 450-600 miles-a-day in an overloaded car, while passing up all the fun tourist spots? You bet, if I'm traveling with one of my loved ones. I wouldn't trade the time with my daughter for anything. We reminisced about fun family times, shared hopes and dreams, and laughed at ourselves, like when Courtney searched for her glasses while they sat on her head or the multiple times I tried to get out of the car with my seatbelt still buckled. Hey, don't pretend you've never done that.
While on Tour, We Thanked the Good Lord for:
The opportunity to spend 6 days driving with my daughter and another 5 at her apartment
No one tried to break into the Subie
The car did not breakdown or have a flat
Neither Scully nor Mulder escaped
No delays due to stormy weather
No belongings were left at any of the hotels where we stayed
The puncture marks on the driver’s door of the Subaru was the worst thing that happened on the trip
I visited 8 states I had never visited before, the Lakies left their scent in 12 new states
I didn’t grocery shop, cook, or clean for 6 whole days
Courtney never verbalized it, but she was no doubt thankful when my voice gave out and I could no longer accompany the artists on our road-trip playlist—perhaps an answer to her prayer?
Most People are Kind
The experience also reminded me that most people are kind. No matter which state we traveled through, basically every individual we encountered, shared smiles and wishes for a pleasant day.
Dog Friendly Restaurants Where We Dined
In case you find yourself traveling with your four-legged friends along the same route we did, here are the dog friendly restaurants we enjoyed:
Winnemucca Pizzeria, Winnemucca, Nevada. Ate dinner on their shaded patio with the Lakies. The pizza was only three out of five stars, but their pet friendly patio raised their ranking to four out of five. Awesome dog friendly server.
Bucks Grill, Rawlins, Wyoming. Ate dinner at tables on the shaded sidewalk in front of the restaurant. Food was a typical bar and grill fare, four out of five stars. Great, dog friendly server.
Clean Eatz, Cheyene, Wyoming. Ate lunch at tables on shaded sidewalk in front of the restaurant. They served healthy bowls, wraps, and flatbreads. We give it the cleanest bathroom award. New locations and clean bathrooms go hand in hand.
The Keeping Room Restaurant and Boutique, Nebraska City, Nebraska. Ate lunch at tables on the shaded sidewalk in front of the café. Attentive server.
Chuy’s, Lexington, Kentucky. No other diners were seated in the covered patio, but the hostess asked a server to cover a table on the patio, so Scully and Mulder could join us. The server was great. Decent Tex-Mex food is a rarity outside of any state that doesn’t border Texas. However, Chuy’s has an edge since the restaurant chain originated in Austin, Texas.
Farmside Kitchen, Durham, North Carolina. Dogs are allowed at the sidewalk tables. They served farm bowls.
Angela L Gold is the author of The Lion Within and Kill Shot.